That’s cool. I agree that it’s not as portable as some other options, but it wouldn’t be able to do what it does if it was.
That’s why there’s still good options out there for everyone! It’s a great time for gaming.
That’s cool. I agree that it’s not as portable as some other options, but it wouldn’t be able to do what it does if it was.
That’s why there’s still good options out there for everyone! It’s a great time for gaming.
Hey, that’s good to know!
Ah! I actually meant to do that (saw that on another post), but the second to last Deck update broke Decky Loader’s injection sequence, so I forgot about it in the meantime.
ETA: the latest Deck update corrected that issue, and Decky works fine, now.
And you’re entitled to your opinion. I also have small hands, and I don’t find its size or weight to be a problem for me.
I got a 1st Gen 3DS second hand some time ago. What I like:
What I don’t like:
I have a Steam Deck, and it’s just better in all respects. I get that it’s comparing a very new device against an old device, but I don’t really see a reason to pull out the 3DS when I could have a better experience on the SD.
There’s still some crackling audio on resume from suspend, occasionally. Would love to see that bug ironed out completely.
To add, downgrading the version helps some games. River City Girls needs version 5.x to get the cutscenes, iirc.
No idea! It certainly had that screen, but I can’t recall if it was necessary. I’ll have to get my GBC out and see. It’s pretty smeary on my GBA.
Not a GBA game but a GB game: Solar Striker
Still have never beat it to this day.
I never could understand the appeal of that game.
Second Ikaruga. A unique way to play a shmup.
I would also give Jamestown+ a try.
It’s fine. I understand why you would be skeptical. I studied metalsmithing in college, so I’m pulling from my knowledge of working with raw copper and applying/avoiding patinas. It has been my experience that raw copper items that touch your skin will develop oxides eventually.
Modern copper pipes don’t have that problem, because they’re often covered with a protective coating from the factory to protect against oxidation (which is why you have to sand joints before soldering, as I’m sure you’re familiar), and people rarely handle them after installation.
These buttons could be just fine and never develop a problematic patina, but I wouldn’t personally take that risk, because ≈$500 replacement cost is high for me. Even the example image shows the characteristic blue oxides, though that could be from an intentionally-induced patina for advertising purposes.
They don’t. Take a look at pennies. The problem is that your fingers aren’t only covered in oil. There’s also sweat, dirt, dead skin, and bacteria.
The other issue is that even if that was true, you’re not touching the entirety of the button. The sides and the underside are just exposed to air, and with enough ambient moisture, expect oxidation to show up eventually.
I like the color of copper, but managing cupric oxide would be a potential headache, especially if it flakes off into the electronics (which it is likely to do on a moving part, like buttons).
You could possibly mitigate this somewhat by running the buttons through a polishing tumbler with burnishing media, but it would give me too much stress knowing that even this isn’t 100% effective.
So it’s old and futuristic?
Test 1:
Locking process.
Unexpected error encountered. Exiting immediately.
Test 2:
Waiting for process unlock to proceed.
Test 3:
Waiting for process unlock to proceed.
Test ...
I don’t have an interest in the underlying project, but the default setup for Openbox on Archcraft looks really nice.